Coming to America: A Chef’s Journey

An Interview with Chef Dheeraj Tomar

Executive Chef, Devi, NYC

 

1) What made you decide to pursue a career as a chef?

As a child, I was a very creative personality and started experimenting with food. I wasn’t really interested in academics or the common professions that everyone else went into, but I was always attracted to working in the kitchen and jobs involving design. A friend advised me to try out a food craft course and it was there that I felt most at home.

2) Why did you come to NY? Was there something about the NY culinary scene that attracted you?

I came to New York City in February 2011. New York is an amazing melting pot of world culture, and the culinary arts have a heightened importance in this city because of all the great chefs and restaurants that reside here. The sizable Indian population in this city made me feel it would be a great place to utilize my skills, especially after working at the Intercontinental Delhi and having interacted with so many international guests. My gut feeling was that I would better understand different palates and tastes if I moved abroad and actually lived among the people who I used to serve in India.

 

dheeraj_inner_1

 

3) What would you say are your specialty dishes?

I enjoy all kinds of cooking, but awadhi and mughlai style curries are my specialty. The Muslim heritage in India gave us really great cusine. generally known as mughlai or awadhi food. and the person who taught me this delicate art (Ghulam Rassol) was an acclaimed chef in India. At Devi, I make Mugh Begum Bahar (chicken breast roulade stuffed with pistachios and minced chicken in a silky saffron laced sauce) which belongs to this genre of cooking.

4) When it comes to cooking, what is your personal philosophy for ensuring success?

Never use short cuts. At least in my style of cuisine, the short cut method doesn’t produce the same quality. If a curry or dal needs to reduce on a slow flame for hours, then let it do just that. Cuisine like this is not fast food. It’s an art.

5) Where do you find inspiration for new combinations?

NYC is full of so many different influences that there is inspiration everywhere. For example, as I pass through the green market in Union Square, I start looking at produce that I’ve never seen before and start visualizing how to combine new ingredients with the ingredients I’m already used to working with. Magazines and the numerous food shows on television today are also inspiring.

6) What do enjoy doing when you’re not in the kitchen?

I have twin daughters. I love to play with them and spend time with my wife and family. Music and travel are other leisure pursuits of mine.